Bar Leone in Hong Kong holds the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. During a visit in October, the experience fell short of expectations despite the hype.
Bar Leone Overview
Launched in June 2023 by award-winning Italian bartender Lorenzo Antinori, Bar Leone draws inspiration from nostalgia, early 1990s cinema, and sports culture. Its colonial-style interior aims to replicate the casual vibe of a Roman street bar.
Unassuming Exterior and Crowded Interior
The venue blends into the street with minimal external appeal. Inside, small, wobbly tables and tight spacing create a cramped feel rather than an inviting atmosphere. Guests sit close together, limiting privacy and comfort.
The Lengthy Wait
Entry demands patience through a digital waitlist managed via WhatsApp. Positions update irregularly, with waits often stretching to five hours. One evening, starting at position 57 required two and a half hours to reach the top three. Even chaotic moments, like a disheveled patron demanding entry with a bamboo stick, highlight the frenzy.
Service and Closing Time Challenges
Polite but stretched staff provide minimal attention once seated, such as unfilled water glasses. Last orders come at 11:30 p.m., early compared to Hong Kong’s nightlife hubs like Lan Kwai Fong and Soho, where venues thrive past 2 a.m.
Strengths: Exceptional Cocktails
The drinks stand out. An olive oil sour delivered rich, balanced flavors that demand appreciation. Mixologists earn high marks for technical skill. The menu also features a popular mortadella sandwich, though time constraints prevented sampling it during the brief 45-minute stay before closing.
Questioning the Prestige
The World’s 50 Best Bars, judged by global industry experts on creativity, skill, design, and experience, carries significant weight. Yet its subjective nature raises doubts, especially amid long lines driven more by prestige than consistent quality.
Comparisons and Verdict
While cocktails impress, the overall package lacks comfort, hospitality, and innovation beyond drinks. Alternatives like Muis and Peridot offer inventive beverages, superior service, and welcoming spaces without the chaos. Exclusivity via endless waits does not equate to excellence. For now, Bar Leone’s top ranking feels undeserved based on this visit.
