Edinburgh’s historic Cafe Royal, a celebrated restaurant and bar, is marking its 200th anniversary this year, standing as a remarkably preserved testament to Victorian-era design and hospitality. Located on West Register Street, the establishment has maintained its opulent interiors, offering a unique glimpse into the city’s past amidst a modern urban landscape where such historical sites often face redevelopment.

A Rich History of Preservation

The Cafe Royal’s journey began in 1826, though its current iconic location was established in 1863 when it opened as the Cafe Royal Hotel. The building’s survival is a story in itself. In the 1960s, the venue faced the threat of becoming a Woolworths store when its owner considered selling the property. However, a significant public outcry, evidenced by a petition exceeding 8,000 signatures and supported by the city, led to its salvation. This concerted effort ensured that the Cafe Royal’s distinctive interiors would be preserved for future generations.

Originally designed by architect Robert Paterson for Robert Hume, the premises were initially intended as a showroom for gas and bathroom appliances. Its transformation into a hotel in 1863 marked the beginning of its legacy as a hospitality venue. Situated just a short distance from Princes Street, the building’s architecture and interior design have remained largely untouched, allowing visitors to step back in time.

Exquisite Victorian Interiors

The Cafe Royal is renowned for its lavish Victorian baroque interiors, which create an atmosphere often described as having a distinctly Parisian feel. Key features that captivate visitors include:

• Stained Glass Windows: Elaborate stained glass panels, particularly those depicting sportsmen engaged in activities like tennis, archery, hunting, rugby, lawn bowling, and cricket, add vibrant color and historical context. These were created by Ballantine and Gardiner.
• Marbled Bar: The central bar, with its elegant marble finishes, serves as a focal point of the establishment.
• Ceramic Murals and Tiles: Perhaps the most striking elements are the Royal Doulton ceramic tile portraits in the bar area. These six panels, based on paintings by John Eyre, were originally created for the Edinburgh International Exhibition of 1886. They were acquired by architect James Macintyre Henry and represent rare surviving artifacts from the exhibition.
• Wooden Panelling and Ornate Cornicing: Rich wooden paneling and intricately detailed cornicing throughout the restaurant and bar contribute to the overall sense of historical grandeur.

Notable Ceramic Tile Depictions

The Royal Doulton tiles in the bar are not merely decorative; they celebrate influential figures in history and innovation. Among those depicted are:

• James Watt: Celebrated for his improvements to the steam engine, particularly the invention of the separate condenser.
• William Caxton: Credited with introducing the printing press to England.
• George Stephenson: Known as the ‘father of railways’ and a pioneer in locomotive engine development.

Culinary Heritage and Modern Celebrations

Beyond its visual splendor, Cafe Royal has a long-standing reputation for exceptional food and drink. It has been a favored spot for locals and tourists since its inception, welcoming generations with its offerings.

A cornerstone of its culinary identity is its commitment to fresh, locally sourced seafood. The Scottish Rock Oysters, harvested from Cumbrae, remain a signature dish, with the establishment selling over 1,000 oysters weekly. This dedication to quality and provenance has been a constant throughout its history.

The establishment’s historical significance was further recognized when it was featured in the 1981 film Chariots of Fire. The wood-paneled Oyster Bar was used to represent a high-end London restaurant, highlighting its timeless ambiance.

200th Anniversary Festivities

Currently owned by the Metropolitan Pub Company, part of Greene King, Cafe Royal is embracing its bicentennial milestone with special celebratory menus. These offerings aim to honor its past while appealing to contemporary tastes. The ‘200 Years’ drinks menu includes a selection of classic and modern cocktails, such as the Champagne Cobbler, Vesper Martini, and a Knickerbocker rum cocktail. The food menu features special dishes like a ‘200 Years’ seafood platter, langoustine in burnt butter sauce, and smoked ham hock and ox cheek stovies.

The Cafe Royal’s enduring appeal lies in its successful fusion of historical preservation, stunning Victorian aesthetics, and a continued commitment to quality dining and hospitality. Its 200-year history is not just a number but a reflection of its ability to remain relevant and cherished in a constantly evolving city.