Dame Joan Collins glides through the dining room at Simpson’s in the Strand, her hair impeccably styled and a leopard print fur coat draped over her shoulders. Diners barely glance up, accustomed to celebrity sightings at this historic London venue. One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Simpson’s has just reopened after a six-year closure, restoring its status as a culinary landmark.
A Storied History
Established in 1828 as a smoking room, Simpson’s in the Strand evolved into a beloved institution for hearty British fare. It gained fame for its signature roasts, where joints of meat arrive on silver trolleys and carve tableside. Previously under The Savoy’s ownership for a century, the site now belongs to restaurateur Jeremy King. At 71, King—known for The Ivy, The Wolseley, Arlington, and The Park—pursued this property since 2000, finally acquiring it in 2022.
The Revived Venue
As London’s last grande dame restaurant, Simpson’s features two dining rooms (the Grand Divan and Romano’s), two bars (Nellie’s Tavern and Simpson’s Bar), and a private ballroom. The revival preserves Edwardian elegance with original chandeliers, wood panelling, and the return of the iconic roast trolleys.
Menu Highlights
The hot trolley delivers exceptional Devonshire Ruby Red beef, slow-cooked for nine hours. A master carver slices generous portions tableside, pairing them with a large Yorkshire pudding, rich gravy, roast potatoes, parsnips, carrots, and greens. The menu sticks to classics: Hovis-style bread, prawn cocktails, bubble and squeak, and spotted dick. Standouts include clementine jelly with Cointreau cream, offering a sophisticated citrus twist.
The Dining Experience
Beyond the food, Simpson’s captivates with its atmosphere. Patrons range from pearl-adorned ladies to potential literary figures and film directors, creating endless people-watching opportunities. Staff in distinctive uniforms—tall toques for carvers, waistcoats for waiters, white dinner jackets for barmen—add to the theatrical flair. The floor manager and Jeremy King himself circulate in sharp suits. Note: photography requires prior permission in public areas.
Pricing and Value
The hot trolley costs £39.50 with trimmings, reflecting the historic experience. Mains start at £19.75 (up to £49.75 for Dover sole), starters from £9.75 (scallops), and sides £5.75-£7.75. A 15% service charge applies automatically.
Final Verdict
Simpson’s suits traditionalists seeking dinnertime theatre and timeless British roasts over modern innovation. The vibe transports diners to another era, attracting London’s elite without exorbitant prices.
